Every central system installation should include these standard prerequisites. Proper sizing relates not to the physical size of the unit, but to its capacity to keep your home cool. Getting sizing right is vital to satisfactory results when adding central air conditioning to an existing house. An oversized air conditioner with too much capacity for the house cycles on and off rapidly, causing noticeable temperature swings as well as failing to extract humidity effectively.
An undersized unit, meanwhile, runs almost continuously as it struggles to meet thermostat settings, wasting energy and raising operating costs. When adding central air conditioning, you can choose from systems with SEER ratings as high as 20 or more. Though high-efficiency units lower operating costs by reducing energy consumption, they also come at a substantially higher purchase price.
Your HVAC contractor can advise you on striking the right balance between upfront costs and long-term energy savings. Cooling performance and efficiency of an air conditioner are directly related to the integrity of the structure. Homes built more than 20 years ago were often constructed to less efficient standards. Frequently, these houses allow an unacceptable amount of air infiltration through cracks and gaps in the structure.
An HVAC contractor can conduct a blower door test to quantify the exact amount of air leakage and pinpoint the location of leaks. Residential ducts are notoriously leaky as they age. In many locales, local building codes require pre-upgrade testing and sealing. Your HVAC contractor can conduct a duct pressurization test to determine the extent of leakage relative to the amount of airflow conveyed through the ducts.
Duct sealing generally requires leak-proofing joints with mastic and metallic tape, then securing each joint connection with metal screws. Part 2. Position the outdoor unit away from any heavily trafficked, dusty, or hot areas. Find the hole you drilled through the mounting plate for the interior unit and position the exterior unit within 50 feet 15 m so the piping and cable can easily be attached.
Make sure that no antenna of a radio or television is within 10 feet 3. Lay a concrete pad on the ground. Secure the outdoor unit on top of the concrete pad. Lay a rubber cushion on top of the pad to minimize vibration, then set the outdoor condenser unit on top of the pad. Secure the unit to the concrete with anchor bolts.
Check the electrical wiring in the outdoor unit. Remove the cover on the condenser. Make any adjustments as necessary. Fasten the cables with a cable clamp and replace the cover. Connect the piping and cable to the outdoor unit. Use flare nuts to secure the 2 copper pipes from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit as per the instruction manual. Connect the power cable that runs from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit as well.
Finally, connect the power supply to a designated outlet. If necessary, you can trim the copper pipes to eliminate excess. Part 3. Bleed the air and humidity from the refrigerant circuit. Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port and connect a vacuum pump hose to the service port.
Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg. Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum. Test all of the valves and joints for leaks, then disconnect the vacuum. Replace the service port and caps.
Affix the piping to the wall with clamps. Follow the directions in the manual to ensure the clamps are spaced adequately. Seal up the hole in the wall using expanding polyurethane foam. Spray expanding polyurethane foam into the hole you drilled to feed the cable and piping through the wall. Make sure the hole is completely sealed to prevent hot air or insects from getting through. Let the foam dry as per the instructions on the label before turning on your air conditioning.
Turn on the unit and enjoy the cool air! It should only take a minute or 2 for cool air to start blowing into your home. Victor Belavus Air Conditioning Specialist. Victor Belavus. Most homeowners shouldn't do extensive maintenance themselves—hire a professional for that.
However, you should be replacing your filters at least every 3 months, and inspect your outdoor condenser for any debris, as well. Air conditioner installation is not a DIY project. It is essential to hire a professional who knows how to install your unit correctly and ensure that it works correctly and safely. The following are some benefits of hiring a professional for air conditioner installation:. Professional advice — A professional can provide you with the information you need to make an informed decision on which type of air conditioner is right for your home and budget.
Professionals can recommend the best type and size of air conditioner for your home, depending on its layout, construction, and location. They will also advise how to best use your unit to ensure optimal cooling performance.
Safety — A professional will know how to safely and securely install your air conditioner and ensure it is working correctly. They have the knowledge, tools, and experience necessary to install your unit correctly and safely while minimizing the risk of any accidents. They will also take necessary safety precautions, such as turning off electrical circuits before installation begins to avoid an accident or injury during this process.
Warranty — Most professional air conditioner installation companies offer a warranty on their work. If something goes wrong with your unit after it has been installed, the company will be responsible for fixing the issue. This can save you time and money in the long run. Durable installation — A professional will adequately install any unit, even if it has many different features or models that are unique or difficult to work with.
They have all the necessary tools and knowledge to install any air conditioner quickly and efficiently. Peace of mind — When you hire a professional for air conditioner installation, you can rest assured knowing that the job will be done correctly and safely.
This leaves you free to focus on other things, such as preparing your home for summer or dealing with any other issues that may come up during the installation process. It is essential to remember that not all HVAC installers are created equal. Make sure to do your research and ask for referrals before you hire someone to install your air conditioner.
Some tips to keep in mind when hiring an HVAC installer include:. Experience — Make sure to ask the company you consider for installation quotes and references. Request information on how long they have been in business, which models of air conditioner they specialize in installing, and what types of customers they typically work with.
You can also check online reviews or talk to friends and family members who have used their services in the past. Licensing and insurance — HVAC installers must be licensed to work in your state. Make sure to ask for proof of licensing before hiring an installer. They should also have liability insurance if any damage is done to your home or property during the installation process.
Comfortable — It is essential to work with an HVAC installer who will make you feel comfortable and confident in their abilities. You should also be able to trust them to leave your home undamaged and clean after air conditioner installation. Sometimes it goes right into the existing plenum. If that won't work because of space limitations, the contractor will fabricate a separate sheet-metal plenum.
If you don't have forced air, the fan-and-coil system is typically placed in the attic, where it will deliver cool air through ducts. The to foot-long pipes that carry the refrigerant are disguised to look like a downspout.
Even the quietest condensers make noise, so work with your contractor to find a location that's not near a bedroom or home-office window. Don't place the condenser under a deck or completely enclose it because it exhausts warm air out the top. Any airflow restriction will lower the unit's efficiency. You can, however, hide the condenser in the landscaping, as long as air can freely circulate around it. Most central air conditioners are split systems: The condenser is outside and the fan-and-coil system is inside, connected to the condenser by pipes that run up the outside of the house.
The pipes can be disguised as part of the gutter-and-downspout system. Ductwork services second-floor rooms through ceiling registers. Ducts run through closets on their way to first-floor rooms. You should have your ducts inspected. Many times, modifications are required to accommodate the greater volume of air produced by air-conditioning.
Ironically, older duct systems, which tend to be larger, work best when retrofitting central air-conditioning. As the heating industry has learned more about the dynamics of airflow and sizing furnaces and delivery systems, ducting has gotten smaller.
Because the fan-and-coil unit is mounted in the attic in most retrofit air-conditioning systems, the challenge is to get supply and return ducts to ceiling registers in the first- and second-floor rooms below. Ducts that feed second-floor rooms are typically run across the attic floor and plunge down between the attic floor joists, where they are connected to ceiling registers.
Ducts that feed first-floor rooms run down through second-floor closets wherever possible. The first step your contractor will take to determine the position of ducts is to draw a floor plan of the second floor and lay it over a floor plan of the first floor. Ducts running in closets take up less space than you might think.
Because most ducts are 12x6 inches or 10x8 inches, even in a relatively small 2x4-foot closet, they take up just 4 of the 64 available cubic feet.
Some cooling contractors might suggest using "flex duct" a small, inexpensive flexible hose instead of rigid square ducts.
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